The pasta you wouldn’t expect, Rigatone
- Sara Riscica
- Jan 3
- 11 min read
Updated: Jan 10
Part 1
Ah, Rome, the Eternal City, where every cobblestone tells a story, and every plate of pasta is a masterpiece. In this article, I've decided to embark on a journey to discover the traditional pasta shapes of Roman cuisine, giving you all the essential insights to easily prepare a proper plate of pasta.
Today, I’m taking you on a journey to discover one of the undisputed stars of the Roman table: Rigatone.
With its cylindrical shape and signature ridges, rigatone is the perfect pasta to embrace the most flavorful sauces.
The name itself comes from the Italian word "rigato", which means "striped". And those ridges? They’re no random detail! They were a brilliant invention of the pasta industry to help sauces cling better to the pasta, enhancing the perfect union between pasta and sauce.
Originally from Southern Italy, particularly Sicily and Basilicata, rigatoni quickly won the hearts (and stomachs) of Italians, becoming one of the most beloved pasta shapes. In Sicily, for example, they’re the star of “taganu”, a baked pasta dish traditionally enjoyed on Holy Saturday.
But be warned: rigatoni are also champions of nicknames! Depending on the region, you might hear them called bombardoni, canneroni rigati, maniche, rigatoncini, or even scaffittuni in Calabria.
A true army of names for one delicious pasta!
Why are Rigatoni perfect for traditional Roman recipes?
The ridges on rigatoni aren't just a decorative touch; they're essential for holding onto the rich sauces typical of Roman cuisine.
Think of Carbonara, Amatriciana, or Gricia: every bite is a burst of flavor, thanks to rigatoni's ability to capture and slowly release the sauce.
Their sturdy texture makes them perfect for dishes like Rigatoni with Pajata, a Roman specialty made with the small intestine of milk-fed veal.
This dish has ancient roots, tied to the Testaccio neighborhood, where slaughterhouse workers would use the less prized parts of the animals to create hearty, flavorful meals.
In short, if you come to Rome and want to fully immerse yourself in the local culinary culture, you simply must order a big plate of Rigatoni.
And remember: here, pasta isn't just eaten — it's lived!
If you're eager to try your hand at traditional Roman rigatoni dishes, in this article we’ll explore 4 interesting recipes:
Rigatoni alla Carbonara
a masterpiece of Roman tradition
Ah, Carbonara! An iconic dish, loved all over the world, but often misunderstood (and mistreated).
The authentic Roman version has no cream, onion, or garlic — just four ingredients that together create pure magic.
Rigatoni are the perfect choice for this recipe, as their ridges capture the sauce in every nook and cranny, delivering a creamy and flavorful experience with every bite.
It’s the dish that says: “You’re in Rome, eat like a Roman!”
Carbonara’s origins are shrouded in legend. Some say it was created by the charcoal makers of the Apennines (hence the name), while others link it to the arrival of American troops during World War II, who combined guanciale and eggs with their beloved bacon and pasta rations.
Whatever the true story may be, today it stands as the symbol of Roman cuisine — simple and brilliant, like a sonnet by Trilussa.
Essential Ingredients
No excuses:
Guanciale, not pancetta! It has a sweeter flavor and the perfect texture.
Pecorino Romano, the king of cheeses — salty and bold.
Eggs, strictly fresh (only yolks if you want to show off).
Black pepper, freshly ground, for that irresistible spicy kick.
Rigatoni, of course.
No cream, no butter, and if you dare add something weird, know that your photos will be posted in Campo de' Fiori alongside the heretics!
When they tell me Carbonara is made with pancetta…
Procedure
Prepare the guanciale: cut it into strips and let it slowly brown in a pan, without adding any oil. Its fat is all you need. It should be crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.
Whisk the eggs: in a bowl, mix the yolks with a generous amount of Pecorino Romano and a good grind of black pepper.
Cook the rigatoni: bring water to a boil in a pot, add salt when it starts bubbling, then throw in the pasta. Drain it slightly before it’s fully cooked to keep it al dente, and remember to save some of the cooking water — it’s liquid gold!
Time to toss: add the rigatoni to the pan with the guanciale, with the heat off. Pour in the egg mixture and stir quickly, adding cooking water if needed to achieve a creamy texture. No heat at this stage, or you’ll scramble the eggs and end up with a frittata!
Why rigatoni for Carbonara?
You might be wondering, why not spaghetti? Sure, some people use it, but rigatoni are perfect for capturing the sauce with their ridged surface. Each one becomes a little pocket of creamy goodness and guanciale, a bite to savor.
Plus, let’s be honest: twirling rigatoni one by one is part of the Roman experience. Spaghetti? You risk looking like a tourist at Trinità dei Monti. With rigatoni, you’re one of the locals.
Rigatoni all’Amatriciana
The love story between guanciale and tomato
Make yourself comfortable, because I’m about to tell you the tale of Amatriciana.
It’s a story that begins in Amatrice, a small town in Lazio where cooking isn’t just an art — it’s a religion — and ends in Rome, where this dish has become a true ritual.
Imagine a sauce that embraces the pasta like two lovers at the Trevi Fountain: crispy guanciale, bright red tomato, and Pecorino Romano falling like savory snowflakes.
And yes, let me tell you right away: rigatoni are the perfect choice, because their ridges trap the sauce in every corner, giving you a bite of pure happiness.
They say that Amatriciana was born from Gricia, its “white” version without tomato, when the farmers of Lazio decided to experiment with the tomatoes brought from the New World. A true revolution!
And when the dish made its way to Rome, the Romans turned it into something even more decadent: plenty of Pecorino, a sprinkle of chili pepper, and voilà! The Amatriciana we know today was served.
But be warned: if you dare to replace guanciale with pancetta, you’re already on the purists’ blacklist.
Essential ingredients (and why they’re sacred)
Guanciale: it’s not pancetta, clear? Guanciale comes from the pig’s cheek, has a more intense flavor, and once it’s crispy, it changes your life.
Peeled tomatoes: not just any tomato, but San Marzano — sweet and full of flavor. Using mediocre tomatoes would be like taking a picture of Piazza Navona with the wrong filter.
Pecorino Romano: the king of Roman cheeses — bold and salty. It’s what turns a simple dish into a masterpiece.
White wine: not for drinking (well, not all of it), but a splash to deglaze the guanciale makes all the difference.
Chili pepper: you don’t need to burn your tongue, but a touch of spice is essential for character.
Rigatoni, of course.
I recommend not overdoing it with the chili pepper.
Procedure
Cut the guanciale: into strips. Put it in a pan WITHOUT oil (guanciale is generous enough on its own). Let it cook slowly until it turns crispy and leaves that wonderful fat in the pan.
A toast to the sauce: pour a splash of white wine over the guanciale to deglaze. Can you smell that aroma rising? That’s Rome already wrapping its arms around you.
Add the tomato: toss in the peeled tomatoes, crushed with a fork. Let them simmer for about ten minutes. The sauce should become thick and rich, like a poem by Trilussa.
Cook the rigatoni: bring plenty of water to a boil in a pot and add coarse salt. Add the pasta and drain it when it’s al dente. Don’t you dare drain it when it’s overcooked and mushy.
Put it all together: pour the rigatoni into the pan with the sauce, mix well, and marvel at how perfectly they come together.
Grand finale: A mountain of Pecorino Romano and a sprinkle of chili pepper. Get ready for a standing ovation!
The Rigatoni vs. Bucatini War
Here we dive straight into the debate: in Rome, Amatriciana is almost always served with rigatoni. Why? Because bucatini, those sneaky devils, splash everywhere. One bite of bucatini and you risk ending up with sauce on your nose, your shirt, and even on your city map.
Rigatoni, on the other hand, are elegant, manageable, and hold the sauce better than a treasure hidden in the Colosseum.
Oh, and here’s a fun fact: in 2015, Amatrice officially registered the Amatriciana recipe. Why? To protect it from heretics who dare to add onion, garlic, or cream. It’s more than just a dish — it’s a statement of identity.
Now, picture yourself in Rome, sitting at a trattoria as the sun sets. A steaming plate of Rigatoni all’Amatriciana lands in front of you, and you realize that happiness is made of tomato, guanciale, and Pecorino.
Buon appetito, and don’t forget to leave a little room for tiramisu!
Rigatoni alla Gricia
The mother of all Roman recipes
If other Roman recipes are masterpieces, Gricia is the perfect draft, the one that came before everything else.
No tomato, no fuss, just three ingredients: guanciale, Pecorino Romano, and black pepper. That’s it.
But be careful: simplicity doesn’t mean banality. This dish is a leap of faith in the quality of the ingredients.
Think of Gricia as the grumpy grandpa who doesn’t care about trends but knows exactly what he wants.
And trust me, when you taste it, you’ll understand that sometimes the simplest things are the best.
Essential ingredients (and why they’re fundamental)
Guanciale: Always him, the king of Roman cuisine. No pancetta — otherwise, you’ll be sent straight to culinary exile. Guanciale is flavorful, melts perfectly in the pan, and creates that sauce that alone is worth the trip to Rome.
Pecorino Romano: Salty, intense, an explosion of flavor. It gives the dish its character and creates that irresistible creamy texture that makes you ask for seconds.
Black Pepper: Freshly ground — not from a supermarket jar, please! Black pepper in Gricia is like a plot twist in a movie: essential.
And then there’s the star: rigatoni. Why? Because they hold every grain of cheese and every drop of guanciale fat, turning each bite into poetry. Spaghetti? They can’t handle it, they slip away. Rigatoni, on the other hand, always win.
Procedure
Prepare the guanciale: cut it into strips and place it in a cold pan, with no oil. Slowly, the guanciale will release its precious fat. It should turn crispy, but not burned (if you burn it, go ahead and book a flight back home).
Cook the rigatoni: use plenty of salted water. Once it’s boiling, add the salt and the pasta. Drain the rigatoni just before the cooking time indicated on the package — about a minute early. They should be al dente, which in Roman terms means “stop before they get mushy”.
Toss and combine: when the rigatoni are ready, drain them (but save some cooking water!) and add them to the pan with the guanciale. Toss in grated Pecorino Romano and a ladle of cooking water. Stir like you’re creating a masterpiece. You’ll see the Pecorino and the water transform into that creamy sauce that makes your eyes sparkle.
Add plenty of black pepper: a generous grind of black pepper, and your dish is ready.
But be warned: no frantic fork twirling. Gricia is meant to be savored slowly, enjoying every bite.
The historical origin of Gricia
Gricia is considered the mother of all Roman recipes. It dates back to ancient times, when tomatoes hadn’t yet made their way to Europe. Shepherds from Lazio, with just a few essentials in their packs, managed to prepare a hearty, flavorful dish using what they had: cheese, pepper, and guanciale. It was the comfort food of the shepherds, but also of Roman workers who, after a hard day’s labor, would recharge with this delight.
And the name? Some say it comes from Grisciano, a small village near Amatrice. Others claim that “gricio” was a nickname given to German bakers who sold bread and other food products in Rome.
The history might be a little unclear, but the flavor isn’t: Gricia is a legend.
When they ask me to choose between Gricia and Amatriciana…
Why are rigatoni perfect for Gricia?
Let me explain. Rigatoni, with their ridges, work like sponges: they soak up every drop of that wonderful guanciale fat and every grain of Pecorino.
When you eat rigatoni alla Gricia, you're not just eating pasta — you're living an authentic Roman experience.
And if you have any doubts, just ask a true Roman: rigatoni always win.
Rigatoni con la Pajata
The most Roman of all Roman dishes
This isn’t just a dish — it’s a love letter to the most authentic Rome.
We’re talking about Rigatoni with Pajata, a recipe that takes you straight to the heart of Roman working-class cuisine, from neighborhoods like Testaccio, where the less prized parts of animals were used to create unforgettable meals.
For those who don’t know, pajata is the small intestine of a milk-fed calf, which still contains chyme (milk residues). It may sound strange, I know, but as it cooks, the milk curdles and forms a natural creamy sauce that is pure poetry.
And trust me: if you really want to say you’ve eaten like a true Roman, you need to try pajata. It’s one of those dishes you won’t find everywhere, but it tells the story of a genuine, raw, and unforgettable Rome.
Ingredients
Pajata: the undisputed star. It’s not just an ingredient — it’s a symbol. Pajata must be cooked slowly, allowing it to release that unique creamy sauce that makes the dish irresistible.
Tomato: used to create a rich, hearty sauce that pairs perfectly with the pajata.
Pecorino Romano: a staple of Roman cuisine, adding saltiness and character to the dish.
White wine: to deglaze the pajata and give the dish an aromatic note that enhances the flavors.
And of course, rigatoni. Why? Because they’re perfect for catching every drop of that creamy, flavorful sauce. Let me be clear: don’t even think about making this with spaghetti — it would be a sacrilege.
Procedure (Don’t be scared — it’s easier than you think!)
Prepare the pajata: cut the pajata into pieces (if your butcher hasn’t done it for you) and tie it into rings using kitchen string. This step is crucial to keep the chyme inside during cooking.
Brown the pajata: in a pan, add a drizzle of olive oil and brown the pajata until it’s lightly golden. Deglaze with a glass of white wine and let it evaporate.
Add the tomato: pour the crushed peeled tomatoes into the pan. Cover and let it simmer on low heat for at least an hour and a half. The pajata needs to cook slowly to release all its creamy goodness.
Cook the rigatoni: Same rule applies here — al dente, please! Boil the water, add salt, and toss in the pasta. Once the cooking time is up, drain the pasta and add it directly to the sauce with the pajata. Stir well to make sure every rigatone gets filled with that thick, creamy sauce.
Add the Pecorino: a generous sprinkle of Pecorino Romano, and you’re ready to dive into one of the most iconic dishes of Roman cuisine.
A dish with an ancient and popular History
Rigatoni with Pajata originated in the Testaccio neighborhood, historically known as the butchers' district. Workers at the slaughterhouse were often left with the less prized parts of the animals, such as offal, which they used to create simple yet flavorful dishes.
Pajata has had its ups and downs. In 2001, it was banned due to the mad cow crisis, but in 2015, it made a triumphant return to Roman tables, bringing relief to traditionalists who feared losing this historic recipe.
Why are rigatoni perfect for pajata?
Let me explain: pajata creates a thick and creamy sauce that fills every ridge of the rigatoni. Each rigatone becomes a little pocket of sauce that bursts in your mouth with the first bite. It’s a joy for the palate, one of those things that makes you close your eyes and say: “Ah, this is Rome!”.
If you thought Roman cuisine was just Carbonara and Cacio e Pepe, you were totally wrong. With Rigatoni with Pajata, you’ve discovered the most rustic, authentic, and flavorful side of the Eternal City. Try it to believe it.
Now that you've mastered the recipe for Rigatoni alla Carbonara, Amatriciana, Gricia, and Pajata, it's time to experiment.
You've discovered the right ingredients, the tricks to avoid kitchen disasters, and the secrets every Roman holds dear.
But let’s be honest: no matter how hard you try at home, the authentic taste of these dishes can only be found here, in the cobblestone streets of Rome, in a trattoria with checkered tablecloths and a host who keeps pouring wine without even asking if you want more.
So, what are you waiting for? Come visit us. In Rome, in our city — and, if you’d like, at our venues. 😊
Book your stay in Rome and dive into our history, our culture… and our cuisine!
Here, you won’t just taste the real Roman rigatoni, but you’ll also have the chance to learn how to cook them like a true local Roman.
And who knows? After a perfectly crafted Carbonara, you might find yourself saying to your favorite host:“Ammazza, 'sta pajata è na favola!”
We’re waiting for you in Rome ❤️
Sara
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